Perfume Review: Miller Harris Tangerine Vert, Fique Amere and Fleur du Matin
By Tom
This labor day weekend featured truly ghastly heat: it hit 100 in
beautiful downtown Beverly Hills, with humidity to match. Saturday was
a trip to the Malibu Country Mart for the largest green-tea
ice-blended I could muster up. Sunday I ducked into a showing of the
Simpson's Movie (which I liked, but they could have shown me Plan 9
From Outer Space and I would have liked it due to the arctic AC and
the icy triple-gulp diet Coke I had) and stopping at every department
store on Wilshire Blvd to examine each and every ware I could think of
with the care and attention to detail I usually reserve for, well,
nothing. Then back home to turn on the totally inadequate air
conditioner and pray for death. Monday I had decided that I would keep
the AC on all day (I am trying not to be an energy pig, and to keep my
electric bill slightly lower than my zip code) and just sit in front
of it.
In any case, for my birthday I decided to get a bottle of Miller
Harris Fleurs de Sel from Saks in New York, since it is exclusive to
that store for a while yet. The very helpful and sweet Rodney included
the above mentioned samples and this weekend seemed as good a time as
any to write them up. Luckily Rodney (could someone drop by Saks for
me and tell him that I love him?) sent three that are perfect summer
scents:
Tangerine Vert was the scent for Saturday: a delightful citrus green
that reminds me very much of the Hermes scent. The development is
quite similar, though the Miller Harris seems to have more depth, and
is far more long-lasting. It also travelled well being refreshing in
the ghastly heat without dying out in the indoor chill of the coffee
shop (because it was even hot in Malibu). The bare hint of Orange
Flower and base of woods and musk and a touch of what seems almost
like cinnamon make this one a winner.
Figue Amere was for Sunday: It starts off very green and bitter,
reminding me (if not smelling remotely like) the first time I tried
Campari. It was in a Negroni and the first sip was dreadful: bitter
and yet sweet at the same time in a way that was compelling enough to
make me sip more. The initial bitterness is cut by the green sweetness
of the fig, but this never gets to that toothache-sweetness that some
other figgy scents go for. On the sun-blasted terrace of the Century
City mall it was a delightful little puff, in the later subzero chill
of the movies it was an equally compelling bone-dry woody amber.
Monday was going to be Fleur du Matin and a marathon of "Pasadena",
however a friend called to ask me to help her retrieve her vintage
1960 T-Bird from her dad's house in the "Inland Empire" at a college
town east of LA, about halfway to Palm Springs. Fleur du Matin lists
jasmine, honeysuckle and neroli as it's notes, but they aren't heavy
or indolic in the least. There's a fair amount of citrus cutting the
flowers making it a fresh, rather delicate scent. Delicate enough that
it did not survive the drive back to Pasadena in the un-air
conditioned car (It wasn't that bad really when we were moving, sort
of like a big blow-dryer). When I got home and re-applied I would
appreciate it more: it's a lovely scent, just not necessarily me. It
made me imagine a walk in a cool summer garden, voile dress whispering
in the breeze. Since you all have seen my picture you can see that I
would not fit that image very well, or at least very attractively. I
would recommend it heartily to others though.
All of these are available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Luckyscent and
Bigelow Chemists
posted by Colombina (Marina) | 12:03 AM
13 Comments:
Anonymous Leopoldo said...
I dunno, I quite like the idea of you in voile dress. Though I
now see you morphing into Laura Dern in Lynch's undecipherable
Inland Empire...
3:34 AM EDT
Blogger chayaruchama said...
Hi, Tom-Tom !
Nice review-
I like them all-to sniff- but I only have the fig; the others
are too sharp on my skin, and I prefer the Cuir D'Oranger to
the TV.
I secretly believe you'd love it , too.
Very leathery.
7:16 AM EDT
Blogger marchlion said...
I agree with both Lee and Chaya -- you could work the voile
dress, and MH stuff in general is too sharp on my skin. You
must kill some of that off. And did you find out what that
Memoire Liquide (?) skank bomb was that you tried?
7:53 AM EDT
Blogger donanicola said...
One of the good things about the UK's lousy summer this year
was that I didn't have to fret about wearing a light summer
fragrance when my preference is for weightier numbers. Lovely
reviews of these, thanks. To my amateur nose I think the MH
scents are well made and a few I like alot (Terre d'Iris, Noix
de Tubereuse, Cuir d;Oranger and the Tabac one)but I don't love
any yet.
9:37 AM EDT
Blogger tmp00 said...
I still have that one in my Netflix queue, so I will decide
whether I am offended later... :-)~
11:32 AM EDT
Blogger tmp00 said...
Chaya-
I'll just have to try then!
11:32 AM EDT
Blogger tmp00 said...
March- not yet, nut I will stop at ScentBar posthaste.
I think it was a Bois 1920
11:34 AM EDT
Blogger tmp00 said...
nicola-
It took me a while to love some of them- I think I was in a
different space. But I am crazy about l'Air de Rien and Fleurs
de Sel and these three are definite contenders. Happily,
Bigelows has some of these in the smaller bottles so i won't go
completely broke over them.
11:37 AM EDT
Blogger NowSmellThis said...
The Miller Harris line just doesn't suit me, but do like Fleur
de Matin. Too short lived to buy, but I like it. I think of it
as an anomaly in the line -- the rest all smell very "Miller
Harris-ish", FdM doesn't.
12:22 PM EDT
Blogger tmp00 said...
I know- the tend to have a bit of "Harrisade" to steal a
phrase, but I kind of like that...
1:25 PM EDT
Blogger lilybp said...
Like Robin, I don't seem able to do many MHs. I do like Vetiver
Bourbon and Geranium Bourbon, though (must be that bourbon:).
1:45 PM EDT
Blogger tmp00 said...
I haven't tried the bourbons yet. I'll have to.
2:19 PM EDT
Blogger The non-blonde said...
Figue Amere is already on my list. If there's one note I can
wear in any arrangement it's fig. Give me the coconut, the
wood, twigs and everything else they couple with it. I wear
them all and then go hunting for another one.
2:00 AM EDT
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